My name is Collin and I cook food. One day I will do something significant with it. Until then here is what I've been up to...

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

hong kong . . . .



As mentioned before, setting out to swallow all of a foreign continent in as limited amount of time as I was provided for Asia is a daunting task to say the least.  It could also be said that if the challenge is even at all possible, you will surely be left with quite a bit of mental indigestion there after.  Trying to stay attentive for nearly three weeks in four countries leaves all senses fatigued and numb by the end, and you will inevitably miss something.  But it didn’t stop me from trying regardless.  Each country wore me out in its own right.  


Simultaneously though, all provided a glimpse of calmness amongst their invasively overwhelming character.  Out of all of them, it was Hong Kong that I felt the most at home in.  It was this city that seemed most akin to the large American cities I am accustomed to.  Hands down it was the least taxing place to unearth someone who spoke English.  The restaurants all seem to emulate the current trends in high-end American bistros.  And the culture – having been influenced by British rule for well over a century – was not far from an unassumingly approachable bridge between eastern and western life styles.


The influence of Hong Kong’s history with the UK defines the city in many ways still even now though it is technically China.  Because of its long period of foreign control while the Chinese government was not in its prime, Hong Kong and the greater metropolitan has artificially collected more wealth and businesses than its mainland counterpart.  The city is self-sufficient in that it has its own contained form of government and currency.  It is the only place in China that has uncensored media and internet access.   All of which attracts foreign business, tourism and a young, progressive thinking crowd of Chinese citizens to the area.


When we arrived to the city it was just at sunset.  The view from the plane was quite breathtaking.  (Unfortunately the cabins fragrance made any deep breath short lived.  Ethiopian Air was a fantastic airline, BUT American and Ethiopian concepts of personal hygiene differ and so the plane reeked of sweaty bodies.) I hadn’t anticipated it would be one of the most aesthetically pleasing cities I have seen. Islands parallel to China’s coastline, bordered by gleaming beaches and bright blue water.  Each islet housed an entanglement of modern architecture and mountains competing for the highest point.  This town is well maintained… and I mean that in every way.  Part of customs was riding an escalator that did thermal scans on all the incoming international passengers.  If you are running a fever you are pulled aside and quarantined.  (Ironic this was the city I got sick in) 

A short bus ride and we were at our hostel in an area that felt like a miniature Time Square.  Its hard not to notice how clean everything is right away.  5,000 Hong Kong dollar fine for spitting makes good sense how they maintain that.  There are also cameras everywhere, but there wasn’t an overpowering sense of big brother like you might expect.  Rather, it was as if the entire personality of the city shared an obsessive-compulsive need for public hand sanitizer dispensers and a 24-hour custodial crew for the walkways.  I didn’t mind after the polar opposite visit to Bangkok.


Diverse architecture can be seen just about anywhere within Hong Kong.  They have the world’s longest escalator (or more accurately series of escalators), which cuts the artsy district SoHo right through the middle.  


They have a colossal central library and seemingly spare little expense on the design or the construction of government funded projects.  


All which utilize bamboo tied together as scaffolding... 

We took a cable car up a nearby mountain to hike a few trails and get a better view of the city.  I can recall every kid at some point in their childhood cracking a joke about digging straight down to get to China.  


Walking around and seeing how different even the plants are on that mountain was a blunt memento that I was in fact on the other side of the world.

With out a doubt the most expensive of the four cities visited, Hong Kong felt more like the States than the rest of Asia when it was time to eat.  The mom and pop establishments I loved in Thailand have been replaced by professional kitchens and global food on a strikingly endemic proportion in Hong Kong. 


It is easier to find Indian food than Chinese in many instances.  Overall the city offered a vast and very delicious variety of cuisines.


If you are craving dim sum it is not hard to come by. 


And if you are having a homesick moment, flavorless omelets and toast can be found at one of the classic All-American 24 hour diners.

We took the trolley around the city once just to get a good view.  You see a lot but they stop so often that it is not a practical way of getting around. 


Locals use the tracks as a bike lane and get home much quicker than paying a dollar the ride would be.

When the sun sets on the city, the buildings blaze with colorful lights and lasers.  


There is a light show over the bay every night where people gather and watch it synchronize to music for fifteen minutes.  


A little cheesy, but does your city provide free public entertainment every night?


Just a twenty minute bus ride through lush mountains and you are at a beach with warm water and a spectacular view.  The sand to garbage ratio made the area even more appealing to me as I am most familiar with Southern California’s less then immaculate coastline.  


A hairy Italian man was kind enough to stop taking candid photos of families he was obviously not one of to snap a few of me, Katherine and the water.

All in all, I loved Hong Kong.  The city was everything you want a city to be, with mountains and beaches just a bus ride away.  


The people are sophisticated enough to pay homage to their ancestors and tradition.  


And young enough to recognize the lighter side of life and modern interests.  The citizens are friendly.  The streets are clean.  The scenery incredible; and absent getting sick my last day there, I cannot think back to the city with any dislikes.   


 I do recognize my romantic memoir of Hong Kong misses a lot of imperfections.  No city is free of them.  They too suffer from dilemmas of dependency on natural recourses, tax budgeting and social injustice like all major cities.  Nonetheless, it can be safely said that Hong Kong is doing many things right, and because of it’s high scoring GPA, I will always remember it fondly.



Next stop… Seoul
Above: recent dishes of mine - Below: a little more about me